Let's Talk Fabrics - High Twist Fabrics

Jason Au
Next, another highly requested topic that our customers requested especially - High Twist Fabrics
We now move onto high twist cloths; for those of you who don’t know, high twist refers to the process in which the individual yarns that make up a multi-ply yarn (most reputable cloths will be two or more ply) are intertwined more than typical suiting yarns.

One of the most well known examples of a high twist cloth would be Minnis Fresco. Here, the individual yarns that form part of two-ply yarns are spun together in the same direction as the individual twists of yarn. Fresco differs in the fact that the individual yarns are spun together in the opposite direction, also known as a ‘Z-twist’.
The above makes the woven cloth more resilient; springier as the tighter twists enable the cloth to bounce bank to its original shape; and generally more breathable as these cloths are generally over-under-over-under plain weaves leaving space between the yarns in both warp and weft resulting in a more open weave.
We have created a graphic to help illustrate the different varieties of high twist fabrics. Please swipe left and rotate your phone to see it! On the left are the coarser and drier feeling cloths like Fresco with less give, making them ideal for trousers but perhaps not so much for jackets. Fabrics like Fox Brothers Air and Fresco Lite, which have a mix of both dry hand feel and slightly softer finish belong in the middle offer a little more comfort. Last but not least are cloths like VBC/Drapers Ascot 4-ply that have the softest hand feel and great elasticity puts them on the right side of the scale with the most comfort.
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