Prologue’s House Cut

Today we will introduce Prologue’s house cut and define the details and characteristics that coalesce into what we at Prologue believe is the ideal cut. As there is much to discuss about a suit’s cut we have decided to split this explanatory post into two parts, jacket and trousers. We will focus on the jacket today, and typical differences between brands and makers can be quite marked.

To start, our house style draws inspiration from the varied tailoring traditions we have experienced on our travels throughout Europe and Asia; incorporating what we believe to be each tradition’s strengths – for example, Neapolitan lightness, Florentine neatness, and Asian precision – into a style that is classically grounded yet better suited for our contemporary times.

Shoulder/sleeve head – Our jackets feature soft, unpadded con rollino shoulders with slight natural extension and a large sleeve head to emphasise the impression of breadth in the shoulders and chest, thereby creating an athletic and masculine silhouette, particularly in a conservatively coloured suit.

For a more casual look we are also able to do spalla camicia shoulders upon request.

Lapel – Our generous notched lapels (generally around 4” in width) further accentuate the feeling of breadth in the chest, while the lowered gorge, reminiscent of Florentine tailoring, softens the width of the shoulders and guides the eye down to the sweeping open quarters.

Quarters – Our slightly longer jacket length and rounded, sweeping quarters elongates the upper body without shortening the leg line.

Chest pocket – Our chest pockets make use of the classically Neapolitan barchetta, which is a gently curved pocket with welting redolent of a ‘little boat’, which points the eye toward the shoulders.

Button stance – The three-roll-two forms our default button stance with our signature symmetrical curve from lapels to quarters.