Prologue’s House Cut

Jason Au
In this edition we go over our iconic house style and how it has changed throughout the years.
Today we will introduce Prologue’s house cut and define the details and characteristics that coalesce into what we at Prologue believe is the ideal cut. As there is much to discuss about a suit’s cut we have decided to split this explanatory post into two parts, jacket and trousers. We will focus on the jacket today, and typical differences between brands and makers can be quite marked.

To start, our house style draws inspiration from the varied tailoring traditions we have experienced on our travels throughout Europe and Asia; incorporating what we believe to be each tradition’s strengths – for example, Neapolitan lightness, Florentine neatness, and Asian precision – into a style that is classically grounded yet better suited for our contemporary times.
Sleeves – Our jackets’ sleeves use the typically Neapolitan high armscye with an enlarged egg-shaped sleevehead that is tilted forward on its axis, allowing the armscye to remain high and yet provide sufficient room for lateral movement such that the sleeve moves naturally with the arm.

Collar – At Prologue we prefer collars that fit snugly yet comfortably at the neck for a secure anchoring point on the body, allowing the wearer’s neck and shoulders to form the ‘hanger’ upon which the garment hangs.

Shoulder line – From the collar to the sleevehead we endeavour to create a slightly concave shape that we believe softens the traditionally austere lines of a tailored jacket that hangs naturally on the wearer’s frame while remaining anchored at the collar.
Shoulder/sleeve head – Our jackets feature soft, unpadded con rollino shoulders with slight natural extension and a large sleeve head to emphasise the impression of breadth in the shoulders and chest, thereby creating an athletic and masculine silhouette, particularly in a conservatively coloured suit.

For a more casual look we are also able to do spalla camicia shoulders upon request.

Lapel – Our generous notched lapels (generally around 4” in width) further accentuate the feeling of breadth in the chest, while the lowered gorge, reminiscent of Florentine tailoring, softens the width of the shoulders and guides the eye down to the sweeping open quarters.

Quarters – Our slightly longer jacket length and rounded, sweeping quarters elongates the upper body without shortening the leg line.
Chest pocket – Our chest pockets make use of the classically Neapolitan barchetta, which is a gently curved pocket with welting redolent of a ‘little boat’, which points the eye toward the shoulders.

Button stance – The three-roll-two forms our default button stance with our signature symmetrical curve from lapels to quarters.
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